Jewelry Intersections
Even though jewelry designs have had distinct eras throughout history, like all good fashion, they have often taken their inspiration from other design movements across a variety of fields. This intersection of fields from art to architecture are two way streets through history. Inspiration can from a past design movement and be re-introduced with a modern twist or from current movement in a completely unrelated field. Either way, the intersection between all of these fields and eras can lead to some stunning, wearable works of art.
One of my personal favorites is the intersection between bas-relief or alto-relievo sculpture and a form of jewelry who's origin story began with the ancient Sumerians. These types of sculpture can be seen as works of art inside Saint Peter's Basilica, home decoration of the wealthy citizens of Pompeii, on Victorian-era furniture, Art Deco architecture and even contemporary works of art. The intersection with jewelry dates back to the first ever cameo carved. Often used as seals, the first cameos were created for use as a signature. The ancient Greeks also used cameos as currency and many of these pieces have been found in archaeological excavations. Cameos continued to be popular during the Roman Empire and were often used as signet rings.
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| From my own personal collection, a alto-relievo hand-carved Victorian mirror featuring the bust of a stunning woman on top. The similarities between the wooden bust & this stunning Victorian Lava Cameo Brooch that is available from Isadoras Antique Jewelry. |
Another favorite intersection is brutalist design. Brutalism emerged after the Second World War and was rooted in the ideas of functionalism and monumental simplicity - especially in the field of architecture. What made brutalist architecture appeal to the masses also translated well into other design fields to include home decor and furniture. This movement within the jewelry world included hefty pieces with bold color and blocky designs. To read an entire blog dedicated to brutalist jewelry design, click here.
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| A contemporary piece of iron wall sculpture created in the Brutalist style (left) paired with a modern 14k Gold Ring featuring two salt water pearls in the same style available from The Genuine Article Jewelry. |
Whether in the form of architecture, furniture or even wallpaper design, one of my all-time periods in American creative history is the Arts & Crafts period. The emphasis on clean lines, an homage to natural elements and the heavy use of native hardwoods has always appealed to me in a way that feels very warm and welcoming. Seeing this echoed in jewelry has the same effect on me. It brings a nature-inspired warmth to it.
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| Acanthus leaf wallpaper design by Arts & Crafts pioneer William Morris (left) & a 19th century antique Victorian 18k Gold & Diamond Brooch / Pendant also featuring acanthus leaves available the Selling Antiques website. |
Perhaps an oddly specific example would be the stained glass works of Louis Comfort Tiffany. A favorite by default, given that according to my Mother, I was named after the glass designer; his work appears to reflect its own intersection between the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts movements. The beauty of Tiffany's stained glass can be seen as a reflection of the work of Parisian glass and crystal maker, René Lalique who was a pioneer of the Art Nouveau period in jewelry by combining intricate translucent enamel work with his expertise in glassware to create some of the most sought after jewelry both then and now.
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| A Lalique dragonfly booth currently in the Met Museum (above) & one of Louis Comfort Tiffany's dragonfly lamps. Both stunning examples of the intersection between jewelry & design. |
These are just four examples of the intersection between the world around us both natural and man-made and the future heirlooms which we have chosen to adorn ourselves with. The possibilities are limitless when there is inspiration to be found in every crack and crevice of our world. You simply have to look.
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